Tuesday 9 December 2014

A brave new world...week 3

Monday 10th November

Song of the day (LH): Never gonna let you down - Rick Astley
Song of the day (VW): Smooth operator

On a rainy Monday Lisbon morning there's only one thing to have for brunch....pancakes and a much needed detox juice!

Photo no.738 - detox juice...carrot, pear and celery



I'm not a huge fan of carrots or celery but this juice was really refreshing, something to try at home. 

Photo no.739 - rainy Lisbon miradouro


Photo no.740 - I'm singing in the rain.....


Well...actually more like he's grumpy in the rain! We walked around as much as felt feasible in the rain. One thing on our hit list was to visit a tile factory in Principe Real. We took the metro, walked the streets to find it...only for it to be closed down...tripadvisor you failed us!!! More grumpiness...uh oh! Please come out sunshine!!! Despite it being so wet, it was really warm so at least it wasn't freezing and raining! Though the temperature seemed to be causing havoc with my internal temperature gauge as there were hot flushes a plenty. Right what else can we do in the dry....a cable car ride. Okey dok! A metro ride and a long walk along the Targus in the dark and sheet rain and we reached the cable car station...to find it had just closed!!! Today was definitely not going to plan. Only one thing to do...taxi! At least putting DW in front of the national geographic channel will cheer him up...result!!!

Dinner time...

Photo no.741 - that is the question! I decided to burger!





Tuesday 11th November

Song of the day (LH): Turn up the music - Chris Brown
Song of the day (VW): I will wait - Mumford & Sons

Road trip! We decided to hire a car and drive north to explore some of the coastline. First stop Obidos! 

Obidos is a beautiful town, dominated by the castle and castle wall. Lit up at night, it's absolutely stunning. Thankfully the rain held off while we walked around...health and safety is slightly less rigorous in Portugal...we were able to walk on the castle wall without railings with some hefty drops beneath us...it seemed a good idea at the time...half way through my legs had gone to jelly. So only one thing to do...don't look down and pray that that it remains dry!!! Thankfully it did remain dry but all of a sudden the black clouds started to drop big fat raindrops....but the most beautiful rainbow appeared!

Photo no.742 - double rainbow!



Next stop on the road trip was Nazaré! The beach here is spectacular and despite it being really windy the sun and blue skies came out! Whoop, whoop!!! 

Photo no.743 - mac and beach!



For the surfers out there, Nazaré is where some of the biggest waves in the world can be found. It's definitely not for beginners...so I decided to give it a miss! ; )

Photo no.744 - happy holidays!


From Nazaré you can take a funicular up to Sítio, a beautiful village on the top of the cliff overlooking the spectacular beach below. Although a modern train, it's probably the steepest funicular that I've travelled on in Portgual...another eyes closed moment!!!

Walking around Sítio we decided it was lunch time. Quite a few places were closed but then all of a sudden there was an amazing smell in the air...grilled sardines! How could we resist?! It turned out to be an amazing find as there were lots of locals in there having lunch and the Portuguese equivalent of the eponymous Italian mama was in charge of the grill! 

Photo no.745 - Portugal on a plate!





Our last stop on today's tour was Foz de Arelho. We arrived just as the light was going but I have to say this is definitely somewhere I'd like to return to. The beach looked incredible and part of it is surrounded by a lagoon and the other part the Atlantic...next summer! It felt like a storm was breaking when we arrived so it was really spectacular. We took shelter in a local cafe and had a much needed pastel de nata!!!

Time to head back to the city! My chauffeur for the day was exhausted so some sofa time was needed before dinner.

The one thing I've noticed, is that I sense more people looking at me in my headscarves here. Perhaps it's in my mind and not theirs but I can't help but notice people looking at me more here than at home. The irony is that last time I was in Lisbon I was sick but looked well and now it's the opposite. Still as Ben's not on holiday with me to coiffeur my 'hair', my wig has to be reserved for dinner time's only!!!

Dinner time...pizza!

Photo no.746 - one of the best pizzarias in town!


The water was much needed as walking into this busy pizzaria it felt like being in furnace. In fact a lady on the table behind us fainted as it was so hot...it was my first experience of paramedics rushing into a pizza place! Thankfully we were by the window so it was quickly opened to get some cool air in. Despite all the drama it was a great pizza! I was sorely tempted to order the €55 pizza with truffles....but sense prevailed and I went for a standard pizza!


Photo no.747 - Pizza Fado!


On the short walk home, the heavens opened once more...I decided to go into a full rendition of 'Singing in the rain' complete with some twirls much to DW's annoyance!!! It felt like being on a movie set...well in my merry mind it did!!! : )


Photo no.748 - night time view from Chiado 16






Wednesday 12th November

Song of the day (LH): If you're not the one - Daniel Beddingfield
Song of the day (VW): Unwritten - Natasha Beddingfield

Sunshine!!!! Oh yeah!!!

The day took the train...oh oh la la! From Lisbon you can take a train ride along the coast to Cascais and Estoril. The view from the train is breathtaking especially on a sunny day! We decided to hop off in Cascais and work our way back to Estoril. 

It was so good to be walking in sunshine with the sound of the waves and smell of salt in the air...sunshine please stay!!!

Photo no.749 - art museum with a view!



Photo no.750 - some of the infamous Portuguese tiles





Photo no.751 - sunshine smiles!


Photo no.752 - big waves...good for surfers!


Cascais offers a Boris-bike like system where you can borrow bikes for a day. They're not the finest mountain bikes available but they work...though my seat kept spinning around which proved tricky at times. There's a designated cycle route which surrounds you with the spectacular coastline and a nature reserve with hills the background...pretty darn nice! The waves here were utterly breathtaking and the setting was unbelievable. 

Photo no.753 - Cascais cycling!



After a couple of hours of cycling, we dropped the bikes back and took a stroll along the seafront to Estoril. It was stunning to walk along in the late afternoon sunshine, with the waves rolling in and out...

Photo no.754 - seafront walking...



As the sun was setting we noticed some surfers heading out into the waves...the water here is not the warmest even in summer, so huge respect to them! I'm sure it's exhilarating but perhaps I'll give it a miss today!

Photo no.755 - surfer at sunset...


Photo no.756 - shadow on station sign



Photo no.757 - the view from the platform...probably one of the world's finest station views!




Arriving back in Lisbon high on vitamin D, we headed to the mercado da Ribiera for a late lunch. This is a Lisbon must. It's relatively new and basically lots of the city's best chef's and food shops have outlets here that you can sample from breakfast to midnight snacks and later...Adjacent to this addition is the original food market where locals come for fruit and veg, fish, meat...basically what I'm saying is that from dawn to dusk this is foodie heaven! 

I've been avoiding processed meats....chorizo, salami, ham....but this afternoon I cracked when a plate of some beautifully cured Spanish hams was on offer from this classic Lisbon charcuterie. It was complete with a glass of Super Bock....

Photo no.758 - charcuterie heaven!





Feeling refuelled I also grabbed a cheeky pastel de nata to have back at the hotel...a good food afternoon!

Dinner this evening was a bit of a mistake....we were both tired from a busy day so had little energy to choose where to go for dinner. After walking around for a bit we settled on a Mexican restaurant....because Lisbon is renowned for its Mexican food.....! This was a case of just needing to eat rather than savouring dinner. Still overall today was pretty wonderful, so you can't have everything!

Despite being away, I still have the daily feeling of getting used to how my new boob feels like. Over the past few days it feels like it is getting a bit harder/ tighter. I know this is perfectly normal for it to change while it settles but I guess it's just a daily reminder...my other scars seem to have blended into being part of me, so much so that I barely clock them now...but my new boob is a constant reminder of this year...I'm sure once it's settled I'll soon forget but for now it's there.

Thursday 13th November

Song of the day (LH): Beat it - Michael Jackson
Song of the day (VW): Sadness Part I - Enigma

Rain, rain go away, come back next week when we're not here! Oh no, you've decided today you want to royally pee it down...


After walking for 15 minutes my boots were completely drenched. Knowing this was likely to happen I handily had taken a spare of socks with me so that I could buy some wellies and have dry feet once more! Some some very Euro-chic ankle wellies were purchased for the princely sum of €12. Dry feet at last! 

Another must do in Lisbon is to have a pastel de bata from the Pastéis de Belém. On a rainy day the other plus about going here is taking a tram ride as its about a 15 minute ride from the city centre. Once in Belém the other must is seeing the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos, a 15th century monastery. DW and I aren't big museum fans, as we prefer to walk around the city and soak up the atmosphere and architecture...however, when the rain gods conspire against you things have to change...so a visit inside the monastery was needed! 

Photo no.759 - operation staying dry in the cloisters!




Photo no.760 - the spectacular courtyard




A rare dry spell meant that we could do some open air walking. The buildings in Lisbon are so beautiful. Traditionally they were often covered in tiles, some of which can still be seen though I suspect this may dwindle over time due to the cost of keeping them. Here are a few examples...

Photo no.761 - townhouse tiles




Photo no.762 - pretty patterns


On the very wet walk back from the tram stop I saw this in the window of a cafe....it made me stop and smile! : )

Photo no.763 - something to make you pause and smile...





DW went back to the hotel but as it had stopped raining I decided to explore a bit more. ie. wanted to go shopping for a bit! I find Lisbon such a friendly city so it was lovely exploring  a few shops and chatting to people as I went. Then the inevitable happened and the heavens opened up, it felt like a bath being emptied rather than a shower. I got back to the hotel and didn't know what buzzer to press for our apartment, so had to go into  reception. The receptionist said he'd let me in which meant going back outside...in the time it took him to open the door, my jeans became wringing wet...I was so wet all I could do was laugh and take a hot shower! Sometimes things like this can make you feel  very alive!

Our last night dinner in Lisbon was planned at Clube de Journalistas, another February revisit as it had been so good. Again they served each of our menu selections to share so that we ended up having a foodie extravaganza....here goes!

Photo no.764 - mackerel ceviche with spicy popcorn and mango vinaigrette




Photo no.765 - beef carpaccio...one of the few and the best that I've tasted



Photo no.766 - roasted octopus with sweet potato mash and spring onions



Photo no.767 - coconut seafood risotto...I'm sure it has a far more glamorous name than this!!!



Photo no.768 - Sweet things....a lot of sweet things!!!




It wasn't quite as magical as the dinner we had back in February but I'd still put it on a recommended restaurant list of Lisbon.

After dinner it was dry so we walked back to Chiado...on the way back we walked past the Mercado da Ribiera....it's our last night here...a cheeky last glass of moscatel...why not!


Photo no.769 - late night market dwellers...



Photo no.770 - the cheeky glass of moscatel....



Photo no.771 - Pedro A-l-v-e-s - I knew it...you've got another career!!!



This evening was excessive, for me, on all accounts...that last glass of moscatel was definitely one too many but for whatever reason it felt good to be 'normal' once more and forget everything for a few hours. Lisbon you've been amazing in breaking my food paranoia and not feeling guilty for every morsel that's not healthy going into my mouth. Thank you!xxx


Friday 14th November

Song of the day (LH): I won't let you go - James Morrison
Song of the day (VW): Lisboa - Melody Gardot

Ouch....water and paracetamol required! What do you mean I've got to pack...eurgh....this is going to go very slowly....The good news was that the sun was starting to appear unexpectedly through the clouds. Maybe we were going to have a good day afterall!

Photo no.772 - a room with a view!



Photo no.773 - 'dust in the wind'



Finally we left the hotel at 12.30 in search of some brunch....I was hungry like the wolf!

Photo no.774 - obligatory Lisbon tram photo!




We were convinced that today would be a rainy day, so before brunch we went and booked an Ecotour! It's a great way to see the city (under cover!) via a guided GPS system and was really fun to drive an electric car. It was a bit cramped for the person in the back...as in legs had to straddle the driver but I would really recommend this to anyone. 


Photo no.775 - our Twizzy!




Photo no.776 - blue skies on the square!



Photo no.777 - driving the Twizzy around the praça de comércio!


Much to DW's fear factor, I went off piste from the tour and decided to drive around Alfama..for those of you who don't know Lisbon its streets are extremely steep, so it was 'interesting' trying to control the Twizzy! Still it was bucket loads of fun!

Photo no.778 - inside the mobile!


Opposite the Ecotours base a shop selling men's shoes called The Lisbon Walker. Just as the weather had cheered up, so had DW's mood, so we went into to have a look. This store is a great concept...for every pair of shoes bought, you receive a free bottle of wine...perhaps a gimmick but Portuguese wine is good so what's not to like! The shoes are well crafted and a good price so DW ended up buying 2 pairs...mmn this should be interesting to pack! They're shortly about to start an online store, so worth checking out at some point - http://www.thelisbonwalker.com

Our Lisbon time was running out....so there was only one thing to do! 

Photo no.779 - a final cheeky pastel de nata!



We were so grateful that the weather had cheered up, as it made our last day much more fun than anticipated. Dry would have been a bonus, but sunshine was a double bonus! Even the Lisbon lover in me's spirit had been dampened by the torrential rain. But with the sun shining my Lisbon love was reignited and I'll be back next year for a summer visit! There is something infectious about Lisbon...the genial locals who aren't looking to rip you off as is often the case with many tourist locations, the stunning architecture, the music and the vibrancy of the city...a great place to escape to. Go, go, go...but probably outside of the rainy season! ; ) Graças Lisboa!!!

Saturday 15th November

Song of the day (LH): Holding back the years - Simply Red
Song of the day (VW): Take your mama - Scissor Sisters

A lazy Saturday...complete with a delightful and celebratory dinner at Felicity and Neil's! Huge congratulations...we're thrilled for you! xxx


Sunday 16th November

Song of the day (LH): Funkytown - Lips Inc
Song of the day (VW): Pretty good year - Tori Amos


Yoga Sunday....though part of me wanted to stay in bed...thanks for chauffeuring Rachel! I could tell that I was really tired as my balance was completely off, which is not so helpful for certain positions. Still good to take the time out and listen to Davinder's soothing voice for a couple of hours. 

Arriving home I nestled into the sofa...I felt terrible. Raging headache, stomach cramps and topped with feeling sick...mmn what is this? This isn't the best afternoon! I know the morning's session is meant to be a detox but I shouldn't feel this bad. The thought of making 'the' Sunday night dinner was too much...Eventually I lured myself from the sofa and enlisting DW's help cracked on with dinner...et voila!

Photo no.780 - Bill's Everyday Asian glazed salmon with Dhruv Baker's Thai salad




About an hour prior to making this it was making me feel worse...fish and queasiness don't mix in my experience...but once made it was actually really good and the salad felt quite cleansing. Dhruv serves this with veal but it works as an accompaniment to most meats/ fish..give it a go! Go on, go on, go on!

Even though I managed to eat this I was still not feeling tip top...stomach cramps, bad headache and elevated temperature meant the little what if monkey was starting to pop into my head...lets get some sleep and hopefully things will be better in the morning...as Elton once sang.."I'm still standing"...so keep going VW...everything will be 'A' ok!

xxx

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